Eat+Drink

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Latino Winemakers Rise in California, Through the Ranks

SONOMA, Calif. — It is harvest season in wine country, the time of year when the scent of crushed grapes infuses the air and flatbed trucks heavy with fruit cargo come lurching down narrow back roads.

For the winemaker Everardo Robledo — who grew up working in the fields alongside his father, Reynaldo, on weekends and after school — the harvest has a particular emotional resonance: a measure of how far the family has come since his Mexican immigrant grandfather drifted from one migrant labor camp to another and his father toiled in the vineyards for $1.10 an hour.

Mr. Robledo, 30, and his family are part of a tiny but growing fraternity of Mexican-American winemakers, many of them farmworkers’ children who now pursue wine business degrees or study viticulture and oenology at the University of California, Davis. “It’s what we have been doing all our lives,” the younger Mr. Robledo said of picking, pruning, trellising, planting and “suckering,” or removing unwanted shoots from vines. “The land is in our DNA.”

For tourists here and in other wine-producing regions, the harvest is an opportunity to swirl, sniff and sip wine, stomp grapes and revel in dinners by master chefs. In Sonoma, visitors can experience an annual “grape camp” whose Web site advertises “three blissful days” picking grapes.

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I’m seriously thinking of checking this place out this afternoon.  Anyone else want to come?  :)

South Hospitality: Abbot Kinney Pizza from a Mozza Vet

You’re in Venice. The LA one.

Thinking about Venice. The Italian one.

And how there’s a lot of pizza there, but none from a Mozza vet…

(And incidentally, the Florida Venice never crossed your mind.)

Meet South End, an intimate wine bar with pizza from the man who was recently running the kitchen at Pizzeria Mozza, now soft-open on Abbot Kinney.

The keyword above was “Mozza.” Which means next time you feel like getting close to someone who appreciates the significance of said keyword, you’ll squeeze into this dark little box of wood slats. It’s got a giant mural of some girl’s face, and that’s about it, decor-wise.

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South End
2805 Abbot Kinney Blvd
Venice, CA 90291
424-228-4736
official website






SUPERBONARA

There are few things in my life that I actually crave.  One of them is a double double with cheese, spread and light onion with animal style fries and a small coke.  Another is the freshest sushi at least once a week.  And the other is a really good carbonara about once every couple of months.

My quest for great carbonaras has been a rather lengthy one. One that started out in Manhattan in the late 90’s.   Places like Po, Gradisca and Lupa have always been on my short list consistently offering the traditional, delicious and expected carbonara. In Chicago, there’s RPM and San Francisco – SPQR and Locanda Osteria.  Here in Los Angeles, Fraiche, Enoteca Drago and Angelini Osteria (lunch only) offer their versions of a carbonara which I do truly enjoy.  And lastly Vito’s on Ocean Park in Santa Monica makes a valiant attempt, but far from the “out-this-world-make-me-crave” attempt that I’m looking for (I just happen to like the old school feeling of the interior).

And then there is Superba.  Critically acclaimed, written up in about a gazillion epicurian media outlets with an Eater proclaimed best chef of 2012 recognition in Jason Neroni.  I first experienced Superba about a month after it opened.  It was divine and the vibe was ultra-cool and relaxed.  I enjoyed everything from the Porchetta di Testa with Pastrami on Rye and Dill Pickles to the Fried Duck Egg with Patatas Pravas (fancy for fried potatoes) with drizzled truffle vinaigarette and tuna prosciutto.  Dinner was topped with delicious s’mores - a chocolate pudding, graham cracker and smoked marshmallow glass jar of heaven.

But it was really the carbonara from Superba that left an indelible mark on me.  It’s a craver.  And I can’t shake the habit.  Home-made smoked bucatini pasta that is thick and fresh.  The egg is meticulously poached at an exact 55.7 degrees Fahrenheit in a device called an Emergence Circulator.  Plus if you happen to be at Superba on a Thursday night, your chances increase that you may be eating an egg laid that very morning from Eclectic Acres in Menifee, CA.  Of course I cannot forget to mention the chunks of salty pancetta.  Every single time I’ve had this dish, it is consistently good – really really good.  Not one thing wrong and everything right about this carbonara.

Greatest thing about it is that I have plans with my regular Superba dinner partner this Monday night which will of course include satisfying one of my 3 cravings.

Liezel’s Rating: Worth Going Back Over and Over

Superba

533 Rose Ave, Los Angeles 90291

(310)399-6400

Open: Mon-Thur 6:00p-10:30p, Fri & Sat 5:30p-11:30p, Sun 5:30p-10:00p  -  Sat & Sun Brunch 10:30a-2:45p - Thur & Fri Lunch 11:30a-2:45p

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